The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century the personal perfumer to Catherine de' Medici (1519–1589), René the Florentine (Renato il fiorentino), took Italian refinements to France. In the east, the Hungarians produced around 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution – best known as Hungary Water – at the behest of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. Recipes of perfumes from the monks of Santa Maria Delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence, Italy, were recorded from 1221. As a result, Andalusian women used perfumes for courtship. This freedom allowed courtship to occur outside of the home. Andalusian women were also offered greater freedoms than women in other Muslim controlled regions and were allowed to leave their homes and socialize outside. Perfumes added a layer of cleanliness that was needed for their devotion.
Like in the ancient world, Andalusians used fragrance in devotion to God. The Islamic controlled cities of Spain ( Al-Andalus) became major producers of perfumes that were traded throughout the Old World. That said, the art of perfumery in Western Europe was reinvigorated after the Islamic invasion of Spain and Southern Italy in 711 and 827. There is a controversy on whether perfumery was completely lost in Western Europe after the fall of the Western Roman Empire. Both the raw ingredients and the distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry. Rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes consisted of mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or petals, which made a strong blend. The Persian chemist Ibn Sina (also known as Avicenna) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation, the procedure most commonly used today. described by Synesius in the 4th century ). The book also described 107 methods and recipes for perfume-making and perfume-making equipment, such as the alembic (which still bears its Arabic name. In the 9th century the Arab chemist Al-Kindi (Alkindus) wrote the Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations, which contained more than a hundred recipes for fragrant oils, salves, aromatic waters, and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. In May 2018, an ancient perfume "Rodo" (Rose) was recreated for the Greek National Archaeological Museum's anniversary show "Countless Aspects of Beauty", allowing visitors to approach antiquity through their olfaction receptors. In ancient times people used herbs and spices, such as almond, coriander, myrtle, conifer resin, and bergamot, as well as flowers. They were discovered in an ancient perfumery, a 300-square-meter (3,230 sq ft) factory housing at least 60 stills, mixing bowls, funnels, and perfume bottles. The perfumes dated back more than 4,000 years.
In 2003, archaeologists uncovered what are believed to be the world's oldest surviving perfumes in Pyrgos, Cyprus. Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed for the composition of perfumes with smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics.Īncient Egyptian perfume vessel in shape of a monkey 1550-1295 BC faience height: 6.5 cm, width: 3.3 cm, depth: 3.8 cm Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City)
The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory." Īncient texts and archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations. They consist of manmade mixtures of aromatic chemicals and essential oils. Perfumes can be defined as substances that emit and diffuse a pleasant and fragrant odor. Perfume ( UK: / ˈ p ɜː f j uː m/, US: / p ər ˈ f j uː m/ French: parfum) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. A bottle of perfume by Yves Saint Laurent
0 kommentar(er)
